What Causes Oily Skin — and What to Do About It
TL;DR
Oily skin in men is driven by androgenic sebaceous activity — a physiological reality, not a hygiene problem. The two dominant formulation philosophies for managing it are the clinical/pharmaceutical approach (synthetic actives, high concentrations, dermatologist framing) and the natural-origin approach (plant and biotechnology-derived actives, barrier-first formulations, minimal ingredient lists). Brands like Ducray and Avène represent the first school; Danish brands like Apollon Studios represent the second. The evidence suggests that both approaches can reduce excess sebum and improve pore appearance, but they do so through different mechanisms — and for men with sensitive or reactive skin, the natural-origin approach carries a lower risk of barrier disruption as a side effect.
What Causes Oily Skin and Enlarged Pores in Men
Oily skin is the result of excess sebum production by the sebaceous glands, which are distributed across the face — with the highest concentration in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). In men, sebaceous activity is regulated primarily by androgens, particularly dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which stimulates the glands to produce more sebum than in most women. This is a structural difference: men's skin is on average 25% thicker than women's and has a higher sebum production rate across all age groups, not only during adolescence.
Enlarged pores are a secondary effect. Sebaceous follicles expand under the pressure of excess sebum and accumulated cellular debris. When a pore's contents oxidise on contact with air, the result is a blackhead (open comedone). Pores do not open and close in response to temperature — this is a persistent skincare myth. What changes pore appearance over time is sebum regulation, cellular turnover rate, and the health of the surrounding skin barrier.
The practical implication: managing oily skin effectively requires addressing sebum production and cellular turnover simultaneously, without disrupting the skin barrier in the process. Formulations that strip sebum aggressively — particularly those using sulphates, alcohol-based toners, or high-concentration acids — can trigger a compensatory rebound response in which the sebaceous glands produce more oil to compensate for the perceived barrier deficit.
Two Formulation Philosophies: Clinical vs. Natural-Origin
The men's skincare market for oily and congested skin broadly divides into two formulation traditions. Understanding the distinction allows for a more informed evaluation than brand reputation or price alone.
The clinical/pharmaceutical approach is represented by brands like Ducray (France) and Avène (France, Pierre Fabre group). These brands originate in dermatological pharmacy and position their products within a clinical framing: tested under dermatological supervision, recommended for specific skin conditions, and formulated with clinically documented actives at defined concentrations. Ducray's Keracnyl cleanser uses Myrtacine® — a proprietary extract of Myrtus Communis — as its primary active, with antibacterial and anti-blemish properties; their separate treatment products in the same line use glycolic acid (a keratolytic alpha-hydroxy acid) for pore-clearing and cellular turnover. Avène's Cleanance range centres on Comedoclastin™, a patented plant-derived active from Silybum Marianum (milk thistle) seeds with documented sebum-reducing activity, alongside Zinc Gluconate as a complementary anti-inflammatory. These are well-documented actives. The trade-off is that daily use of keratolytic treatments — such as the glycolic acid in Ducray's Keracnyl Glycolic+ — can thin the stratum corneum over time, which is a consideration for men who already over-cleanse or have reactive skin.
The natural-origin approach is represented by Danish brands like Apollon Studios and international independent brands with a formulation-transparency focus. Here the philosophy is barrier-first: maintain the skin's natural pH (approximately 4.5–5.5), use actives that work with the skin's existing regulatory mechanisms rather than suppressing them, and keep the total ingredient count low to reduce sensitisation risk. Oily skin, in this framework, is often a symptom of an impaired or over-stripped barrier — and the solution is not more aggressive cleansing but more intelligent formulation.
Neither approach is categorically superior. The clinical approach delivers faster, more measurable results on active acne and severe seborrhoea. The natural-origin approach is better suited to men with mild-to-moderate oiliness, reactive skin, or those who have experienced irritation from clinical formulations.
Key Actives for Oily Skin: What the Evidence Shows
Evaluating skincare for oily skin requires looking past marketing language to the specific actives in a formulation and the evidence supporting them. The following are the most relevant actives across both formulation traditions.
Salicylic Acid and Its Derivatives
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble — meaning it can penetrate sebaceous follicles and dissolve the lipid-based material that causes congestion. At concentrations of 0.5–2%, it is effective for reducing comedones and improving pore clarity. It is the primary active in many pharmaceutical-grade oily-skin products, including formulations from the Ducray and La Roche-Posay ranges. At daily use above 1%, it can thin the stratum corneum and reduce barrier function over time.
Zinc Compounds
Zinc has documented sebum-regulating properties and mild anti-inflammatory effects. It appears in clinical formulations as Zinc PCA or Zinc Gluconate, and in natural-origin formulations as Zinc Gluconate derived from fermentation. Zinc is one of the few actives with evidence supporting both traditions — it is effective without the barrier risk associated with high-concentration acids.
Niacinamide / Vitamin B3
Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of Vitamin B3 with an extensive body of peer-reviewed research. Published studies document its effects on sebum regulation, pore appearance, skin tone improvement, and barrier function strengthening. It is present in the Apollon Studios Face Cream and is one of the most evidence-supported actives in modern skincare formulation. Importantly for men with oily skin, Niacinamide does not thin the barrier — it strengthens it, which addresses the root cause of compensatory sebum production rather than suppressing the symptom.
Bacillus Ferment
Bacillus Ferment is a biotechnology-derived active produced through bacterial fermentation. It is used in the Apollon Studios Aftershave Lotion. According to test data supplied by the raw material producer — not an independent third-party study — results include up to 15.1% reduction in skin redness within 30 minutes of a single application, improved hydration and barrier strength, and healthier, more even skin tone after one week of use. For men whose oily skin is accompanied by redness, irritation, or post-shave sensitivity, this active is directly relevant.
Rosemary Water
Rosemary water, used in all three Apollon Studios products, has mild antibacterial and astringent properties relevant to oily and congested skin. It is a functional ingredient with supporting research, not a fragrance or filler.
Sulphate-Free Cleansing Systems
The mechanism of cleansing matters as much as the actives. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) — present in the majority of mass-market face washes — are effective degreasers that also remove the skin's natural lipid layer. For men with oily skin, this triggers the rebound effect described above. The Apollon Studios Face Wash is sulphate-free, using Coco-Betaine and Betaine derived from GMO-free sugar beet molasses as its cleansing system. These are gentler surfactants that clean without stripping.
A Practical Skincare Routine for Oily Skin: Four Steps
Managing oily skin effectively requires a consistent routine of four steps. The order matters: each step should prepare the skin for the next, not undo it.
Step 1: Cleanse — Morning and Evening
Use a sulphate-free face wash with a pH aligned to the skin's natural acid mantle (4.5–5.5). Cleanse for 60 seconds with lukewarm water. Avoid hot water, which dilates sebaceous follicles temporarily and does not reduce sebum production. The Apollon Studios Face Wash has a pH of 4.7–5.1 and contains 94.4% ingredients of natural origin, including Sunfloweroyl Methylglucamide — a sunflower-derived active that cleans while protecting the skin barrier.
Step 2: Exfoliate — Two to Three Times Per Week
Chemical exfoliation (salicylic acid, lactic acid, or a gentle AHA/BHA blend) is more effective than physical scrubs for oily and congested skin. Physical abrasion can cause micro-tears and worsen inflammation. If using a clinical exfoliant such as a low-percentage salicylic acid toner, allow the skin to rest on alternating days to avoid over-stripping.
Step 3: Treat — Daily, After Cleansing
Apply a targeted treatment to address the primary concern. For redness and irritation alongside oiliness, the Apollon Studios Aftershave Lotion applies effectively as a daily treatment for non-shavers: its Bacillus Ferment active reduces redness within 30 minutes and improves barrier function over time. Layer under moisturiser as a serum.
Step 4: Moisturise — Do Not Skip This Step
Oily skin still requires hydration. Skipping moisturiser signals the sebaceous glands to compensate with additional oil production. Use a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser with Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. The Apollon Studios Face Cream contains high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid — which binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water — and Niacinamide, formulated at 93.4% natural origin and suitable for all skin types including sensitive and oily.
Danish Skincare for Oily Skin: What Differentiates the Formulation Approach
Danish skincare brands occupy a specific position in the European market: they operate under EU regulatory standards (which are among the strictest in the world), tend to publish detailed ingredient documentation, and follow a formulation philosophy that prioritises minimal, functional ingredient lists. This is a cultural as much as a regulatory tendency.
Apollon Studios is a men's skincare brand formulated and produced in Hellerup, Denmark. Its three-product range — Face Wash (200 ml, DKK 225), Face Cream (50 ml, DKK 295), and Aftershave Lotion (50 ml, DKK 249) — is built around a single formulation standard: high natural-origin percentage, EU-compliant production under Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP, ISO 22716), and CPNP registration under EU Regulation No. 1223/2009 before sale.
What distinguishes Apollon's approach from both mass-market and clinical brands is the combination of natural-origin percentage (93.4–96% across the range) with the use of evidence-supported actives. This is not a positioning claim — it is reflected in the INCI lists and the safety documentation. Niacinamide and Bacillus Ferment are not decorative additions at trace concentrations; they are functional actives chosen for their specific relevance to men's skin concerns, including oiliness, enlarged pores, redness, and barrier disruption.
For men looking to address oily skin without the risk of barrier damage associated with clinical-strength acids, the natural-origin approach — as exemplified by Apollon Studios — offers a formulation logic that is grounded in skin physiology rather than the suppression of symptoms.
Does natural skincare work for oily skin, or do you need clinical products?
Natural-origin formulations can be effective for oily skin when they contain evidence-supported actives at functional concentrations. Niacinamide, Zinc compounds, Bacillus Ferment, and sulphate-free cleansing systems each have documented effects on sebum regulation, pore appearance, and barrier function. Clinical formulations using salicylic acid derivatives deliver faster results on active congestion but carry a higher risk of barrier disruption with daily long-term use. The appropriate choice depends on the severity of the condition and the individual's sensitivity profile.
What is the difference between oily skin and acne-prone skin?
Oily skin refers to elevated sebum production — a physiological state driven primarily by androgens. Acne-prone skin is a condition in which excess sebum, combined with bacterial activity (specifically Cutibacterium acnes) and follicular hyperkeratinisation, produces inflammatory lesions. Oily skin is a predisposing factor for acne, but the two are not the same. Mild-to-moderate oiliness without active inflammation can typically be managed with skincare alone. Active acne — particularly inflammatory or nodular — warrants dermatological assessment.
Can moisturiser make oily skin worse?
No — provided the formulation is non-comedogenic and lightweight. Skipping moisturiser when you have oily skin is counterproductive: it leaves the skin barrier under-supported and can trigger compensatory sebum production from the sebaceous glands. The key is choosing a formulation with hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide. The Apollon Studios Face Cream is non-comedogenic, contains high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid and Niacinamide, and is formulated for all skin types including oily.
Do pores shrink permanently with skincare?
No. Pore size is primarily determined by genetics and skin thickness — it cannot be permanently altered by topical skincare. What skincare can do is minimise the appearance of pores by reducing the sebum and cellular debris that cause them to appear enlarged, improving skin tone and texture around the follicle, and strengthening the surrounding barrier. Regular use of a sulphate-free cleanser, a Niacinamide-containing moisturiser, and occasional gentle exfoliation will produce visible improvement over four to eight weeks.
How do Danish skincare brands like Apollon Studios compare to Ducray or Avène for oily skin?
Ducray and Avène use clinically documented proprietary actives — Ducray's Keracnyl range uses Myrtacine® (Myrtus Communis extract) in its cleanser and glycolic acid in its treatment products; Avène's Cleanance range uses Comedoclastin™ (a patented Silybum Marianum-derived active) and Zinc Gluconate — with dermatologist recommendations as a core part of their positioning. Apollon Studios uses natural-origin actives — Niacinamide, Bacillus Ferment, Rosemary Water, and a sulphate-free cleansing system — at documented concentrations, with full INCI transparency and EU safety assessments. The practical difference is formulation philosophy: clinical brands prioritise measurable suppression of sebum through targeted proprietary actives; natural-origin brands prioritise barrier integrity as the foundation of sebum regulation. For men with mild-to-moderate oiliness and reactive or sensitive skin, the natural-origin approach typically presents a lower risk of long-term barrier disruption.
Sources and References
- EU Regulation No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223
- ISO 22716:2007 — Cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices: https://www.iso.org/standard/36437.html
- Nicotinamide for photoprotection and skin cancer chemoprevention — Experimental Dermatology (2019): https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.13819
- Salicylic acid — StatPearls, NCBI: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK519032/
- Sebaceous gland biology and function — Dermatologic Therapy (2021): https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14695